Salty Paws: Northern Lake Michigan

We left Mackinaw City at 7:30 heading for the bridge and then through the Straits of Mackinac, it was a rather lumpy ride, some white caps and all hand steering. We were glad when we passed Gray's Reef and the waves settled down somewhat, now they were behind us and the boat was surfing down the waves.

The Michigan coast

All the towns you visit along the eastern shore of Lake Michigan are protected by breakwalls and Charlevoix was our first entrance. As it was a Saturday there was lots of boat traffic heading into the harbour. We saw the bridge rise and started in following a ferry and sailboat but obviously we did not travel in fast enough as the bridge shut before we arrived, not even open 5 minutes, we had to motor in slow circles for a half hour until the bridge opened again.

Hot dog stand in the harbour in case you got hungry before you docked

The harbour

Earl Young, born 1889, was an architect who built many homes in Charlevoix in a distinct "mushroom" design, sometimes called Smurf houses, a most unusual but charming style.

A resident told us about a great walking path for Rory

Harbor sunset

At 6:50 am we were hovering around the bridge with five other boats waiting for the bridge to lift at 7 am, everyone was anxious to be on their way.

Sweetgrass is a 1984 Roughwater owned by a delightful couple, Jenny and Jerry, whom we met while in Mackinac City. We were headed for Leland and although it was lumpy and there were a few whitecaps around we had an enjoyable cruise arriving in Lealand at 11:30. As the day progressed the winds and waves picked up quickly on the lake and boats quickly filled the marina, some having a challenging time docking with the conditions, one unfortunate boat ran aground outside the harbour. After about four hours they were finally pulled off by a tow company and luckily did not sustain any damage as the shores along the east side of Lake Michigan are mainly sand but did they take a beating as the waves picked them up and slammed them down.

We had a front row seat when the sailboat was towed as we had been invited for cocktails by Bonnie and Charlie, Gold Loopers, on their beautiful Grand Banks, we were sitting on their flybridge with a full view of the marina and outer harbour.

We ended up spending four nights in Leland as the weather continued to blow, a real introduction to Lake Michigan but had a wonderful time. There were five looper boats (Sweetgrass, Sonata, and three Canadian boats TerrMar, Ookpik and us) in the marina and we had some great times, a pot luck dinner, and lots of dock talk. Jenny from Sweetgrass came up with the name Fishtown Five!

Leland is know as Fishtown as it still has a small historic fish village at the mouth of the river, very touristy now but charter boats leave from this harbour, fresh fish is sold and smoked here.

Carlson's smoker

Above the dam the Leland River led to Leelanau Lake, lots of small boats and a very pretty cottage area, historic homes and mature trees.

I watched a family of five join hands to reach around the circumference of this tree, unfortunately I did not have the camera with me.

You can tell we are not underway

Frank could not leave town without trying a Chubby Mary, a Bloody Mary with a whole Chub smoked fish garnished with a dill pickle, olive and lime slice. The cocktail was a little bony but the seafood chowder was excellent.

After four nights in Leland we were able to depart heading for Arcadia leaving at 6:50. By 9 the waves had increased to 2 ft, by 10 we followed behind OokPik, a 68,000 lb Marine Trader who blocked the waves for us, by 12 some of the waves were in the 4 to 6 ft range. As we passed Frankfort I asked Frank if he would like to stop there, his reply, if OokPik stops here yes, if OokPik goes to the end of the earth that is where we are headed! Shortly after Frankfort the waves settled down and the last hour of the trip was pleasant.

Michigan coast (photos or log book entries are few when seas are rough and I am hanging on)

Arcadia was a pleasant harbor, not much in the town but the beach was wonderful and the dockmaster was friendly and helpful. We had group cocktails on the picnic table and the sunset that evening was spectacular.

Ookpik at anchor

We left Arcadia at 6 am, everyone wanted an early start as we were learning that usually on Lake Michigan the wind and waves were calmest early and as the day progressed so did the wind and waves. It was a Saturday and there were a lot of fishing boats in this marina, by 5 am the first of the boats began to leave the marina. When we exited the breakwall we knew that there were many fishing boats out there, two to three miles offshore but they were just twinkles in the dark. Today Sweetgrass volunteered to be our blocker, we followed for a couple of hours but conditions were such that we each went our own speed. At Big Shoal Point it was amazing the number of fishing boats that we had to avoid, Sonata figured there were about 100 boats fishing in the area.

Sweetgrass leading the way

Fishing boat obstacle course

We arrived in Pentwater harbour and once again as the afternoon progressed the waves increased. OokPik arrived a couple of hours later and told us how the lake was whipping up and the waves were crashing in, we had to take a look.

Pentwater Harbor

Enjoying the waves from land

Look at the number of rods, this is a serious hobby

Our next stop was at Grand Haven, it was a wonderful day on the water, flat calm, no waves or wind. This was only day number 3 of these conditions since we started our adventure. As cruisers we love these days but I do not think it is the type of day that makes sailors hearts soar. Grand Haven presents a wonderful musical fountain every evening which we were able to watch from the deck of our boat.

Note the difference in the colour and motion of the water as we entered the breakwall for Grand Haven as the river water meets the lake