We are off for another adventure in the sun, this time to the Abacos. We drove to the cottage, checked that everything was ready for winter, spent the night and then drove to Killbear Marina to pick up Salty Paws for our trip south. Toronto to the marina at Indian Town, Florida in 3 days and all went according to plan. We arrived at the marina after dark, Mac and Maddie slept in the truck and Frank and I piled into the boat sitting attached to the truck for our first night in Florida. We spent about a week in Indian Town getting ready for the trip to the Abacos, buying food, beer, wine and watching the waterline drop. Never having been to the Abacos we were uncertain what to expect so we were well stocked. Marina living is easy, meet great people, renew old friendships, and there is always dock talk or a get together organized by the marina. On January 24 we headed out and spent two days getting to West Palm Beach where we waited 8 days for a weather window to cross the Gulf Stream.
The sad ending for one boat on the St. Lucie River.
Homes along the intercoastal waterway.
Terri, our boat neighbour at Riviera Beach Marina, and her dog Sheila.
We finally got a weather window to cross the Gulf Stream, we were up at 4 a.m. to listen to NOAA and then off we went. It was rough leaving the cut at West Palm Beach but after we got away from the shore things settled down and we had a wonderful crossing even though Mac and Maddie did share the space under the table, their comfort den.
Our first sighting of West End, Bahamas, what an exciting time! The captain (no swelled head please) took papers and passports and cleared us in, no problems and we are here!
The next day we cruised to Great Sale Cay, the type of day that dreams are made of, we had 10 ft depths and could see the bottom clearly. Once at anchor we experienced a wonderful sunset and life was good. Conditions changed for the worse overnight, we headed out as the winds were from the south but it was terrible cruising and we would have turned around if it felt possible, pulled into Spanish Cay and spent 4 nights waiting for better conditions. Staying at the marina on Spanish Cay we had full use of the facilities although the weather was too cool for using the pool but we enjoyed the Conch Fritters at the restaurant and walked the island exploring the private airstrip, the homes and the beaches.
Our next stop was Green Turtle Cay, Mac and Maddie made friends where ever they travelled.
Our next place to visit was Hope Town, famous for the candy cane lighthouse, colourful houses, friendly people, and wonderful beaches. You can walk for miles on the soft sand beaches and the town is picture perfect. We met friends from Toronto, Sue and Don, for a wonderful dinner. We stayed at Hope Town Marina and the owner Rudy was friendly and hospitable, an islander who snuck away at every opportunity to fish the reef which was 3 miles offshore. We headed over to Marsh Harbour and stayed at the Harbour View Marina. There was still evidence of the destruction that was caused by the hurricanes the previous year. Marsh Harbour has many conveniences that boaters are looking for – a couple of good grocery stores (we did not really need to load the boat with provisions the way we did), a vet, Buck a Book, restaurants, internet, and a bakery. Coconut bread has certainly become a favourite.
Every morning we would listen to the Cruisers Net for all the latest coming and goings of the islands. It was wonderful to know when the Jib Room had a special evening, when Nippers was having a pig roast, what the weather forecast was, when the full moon party would take place at Lubbers Quarters. The cruisers net also informed people if there was a need for them to contact home and you could announce that you had arrived in the Abacos and try to make contact with old friends.
Allana and Scott joined during their reading week from university, there was so much we wanted to share with them and the weather did not always co-operate. We headed to Sandy Cay to go snorkelling but Frank and Allana were no sooner in the water when another boat yelled that there was a 6 ft. shark in the area so out they came. We continued on to our next stop, Little Harbour, where we picked up a mooring ball and had dinner at Pete’s Pub. Little Harbour is a perfect destination with company, the bay is very protected, the pub is open air, of driftwood construction with a thatched style roof, there is a beach to walk on the outer side and you can explore the caves.
We headed back to Marsh Harbour as the forecast was not good so the next day we went to Hope Town by ferry to share our favourite island. We walked the beach, got rained upon, ate at Harbour's Edge and thoroughly enjoyed a miserable day.March 4 was Heritage Day in Hope Town. The school children danced around the Maypole and then the adults had a turn showing us all that the adults were no more co-ordinated than the children. There was a sculling demonstration, a flag parade of boats, a best looking knees contest to raise money for the museum and food, macaroni and cheese with a bit of a bite, sandwiches and home baking.
We went to Great Guana Cay to hear the Barefoot Man at Nippers. Everyone was in a wonderful festive mood – ready to party. Many people we talked to had attended other years and made it a point to be in the Abacos for the concert. A great time was had by all.
We moved to Man O War and picked up a mooring ball for 5 nights, our original plans were not to stay that long but the winds picked up and we had no desire to change locations. Lola, the bread lady, drives around in her golf cart selling her home baking, and we do love bread.
We stopped at the Sailworks which originally was a sail making loft but now there are three women sewing different items for the tourists such as cream canvas bags trimmed in different colours. Bumped into our friends Don and Marjorie who were purchasing batik fabric to reupholster the setee on their sailboat Magnus. They were showing friends of theirs from Nova Scotia the Abacos.
We poked our head in the Albury boatworks, walked the island, found the best ball diamond in the world, Frank would love to play on a diamond that overlooks the Atlantic Ocean.
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As the season progressed the weather improved, the north winds did not come as frequently and the cruising was wonderful. We anchored out at Snake Cay. Early afternoon we were the only boat and then a flotilla of 3 Canadian registered sailboats arrived, nicknamed the Canadian Navy, we had met Jan and Cameron (from Nova Scotia) a few times this winter and spent a lovely evening on their boat Tas Amore. It was pot luck but Jan was the one to whip up the main course for 10 with curried lobster and fish they had caught that day!
Once again we shared the dock with Marjorie and Don, our paths continued to cross. Great fun was had when they arranged for the musical instruments to come off the boats and onto the dock. On St Patrick’s Day Rudy agreed to let us use one of his rooms for a jam, I was amazed at the instruments that were on the boats at our dock, 3 flutes, 2 fiddles, 2 guitars, banjo, accordian, spoons and drums, such talent.
Ken and Kathryn arrived for a week holiday and we had to show them all our favourite spots, Hope Town, snorkelling at Sandy Cay, Little Harbour and Treasure Cay. The beach at Treasure Cay is wonderful, another place in the Abacos that you can walk for miles on the soft, soft sand. The beach was a great shelling beach especially for sand dollars. Treasure Cay is very developed and lacks the outer island feel. We heard and then saw our first water spout while sitting in the beach bar on Treasure Cay.
Treasure Cay
Mac and Maddie head to shore 
Little Harbor, Pete's Pub
On our way north we stopped again at Green Turtle Cay, Provincetown is a very quaint village where it is a pleasure to stay. We rented golf carts with Don and Marjorie to tour the island, had lunch at the Green Turtle Club, found a great beach for beach combing and snorkeling just offshore, had lots of laughs. Went one evening and saw the Gully Roosters, a local group, playing at the Green Turtle Club.
We travelled back to Florida with Don and Marjorie, the weather was made to order. When we crossed in January there were only two boats anchored for the night in Great Sale Cay, in April there were probably 30. We stopped for the evening at West End, filled the fuel tanks, listened to the weather and decided to go to Florida the next day as the weather was still good. The trip across the Gulf Stream was pleasant, it is always a very tense undertaking as you know it is not always an enjoyable trip.
We spent two nights in West Palm Beach, said our good-byes to Don and Marjorie, and headed to Indiantown where we organized the boat, loaded it onto the trailer and headed home, another wonderful winter in the sunny south!
