Winter 2004
We’ve arrived in Fort Myers about to begin our first winter cruising in the sunny south, a dream come true.
After a week sitting on the dock in Ft. Myers we finally felt ready to cast off for our big adventure. The boat was now fully outfitted, provisioned, and the weather was good, no more excuses. Spending long term on the boat was all new to us so we enjoyed every minute of every day. We met such wonderful people, below are Connie and Ged Byron and their dog Sousa who were doing the Great Loop.
Our first day was 29 miles, Fort Myers to Port LaBelle Marina, a picturesque and easy day.
When we arrived at Port La Belle Marina another boater warned us not to let the dogs too close to the waters edge as there is an alligator that lives there. Now we are from up north and the idea of alligators at the marina was all new to us, must be more cautious. We were immediately asked by Barbara, another boater, to join the group on the lawn for happy hour. What a beginning to our trip! Everyone knew each other as they spent the winter at this marina and although we were only there for one night they made us feel so welcome and we were such “newbies” to this way of life. While barbequing that night the turtles came right to the boat for handouts and the sunset was amazing. We know everyday cannot be like this but we went to bed smiling from ear to ear.
The next couple of days we travelled to Clewiston and around Lake Okeechobee via the southern Rim Route, lots of birds, bass boats and dead vegetation. As this was a flooded area it looked a little ghostly with the dead trees.
We developed motor trouble just outside the Port Mayaca lock, Frank was able to restart the engine and we entered the lock but we were unable to start it again after locking through. The lockmaster gave us some time to try to leave by our own power but the end result was we were pulled out of the lock and tied to a piling using the current and the bow thruster. Frank got the smaller motor started and we motored to Indian Town where we spent the weekend (it was advised not to do Hell’s Gate, Stuart on the weekend with only a 9.9.
We headed to Manatee Pocket where Doug of Manatee Marina was able to fix us up and send us on our way. This is where we found that having a Canadian warranty with Yamaha did not mean that work would be covered in the U.S., an unexpected bill.
There was a West Marine within walking distance of the Manatee Marina and a great restaurant called Shrimpers where we were able to sit outside with the dogs, Mac and Maddie. Frank discovered one of his favourite Florida dishes, Butterflied Buffalo Shrimp, we felt it would be a great bar food for Toronto, but probably too expensive with the size of the shrimp.
Now it was time to head south! There was minimal boat traffic as we went passed the St. Lucie inlet. The intercoastal waterway was a pleasure, Jupiter area was mangroves and undeveloped park land, numerous fishing boats, exciting to see the lighthouse from the water, the Palm Beach area was jaw dropping with magnificent mansions on both sides of the waterway, how the other half lives (or .0000001 lives). We stayed two nights at Delray Beach as the weather was not good on Saturday. There was a Publix within walking distance and we were able to walk to town for a craft market (where we picked up a new crew member, Pelican Pete, a hand carved coconut in the shape of a pelican). We walked over the bridge to the barrier island, along the island and back over the next bridge, about 4 miles. A great walk but the Newfoundland , Maddie, let us know that she was not keen on walking so far in what she considered to be warm weather. In Lake Worth we chatted with another Rosborough owner, Carol and Wayne Rock on Roc Aweigh.
Fort Lauderdale was an incredible experience, we slowly made our way up the New River, boat traffic in both directions, yachts, paddle wheelers, water taxies, it was like rush hour on the water, we had never experienced anything like it. The dock master, Joey, was extremely helpful, advising us to come in at slack tide, and placing us where the bridge traffic would be as minimal as possible. A parade of boats kept us amused as we enjoyed cocktail hour from the cockpit of our own boat. The next day we explored a bit of Ft Lauderdale using the water taxi, we went to Blue Water Charts and enjoyed letting someone else navigate and drive so we could enjoy all that there was to see.
Dwarfed in Fort Lauderdale
We spent a couple of days at Elliott Key enjoying a totally different side of Florida than we had ever experienced. When entering the Keyes, before we went under the bridge at hwy 1, we saw helicopters chasing a speed boat, we had no way of knowing if it was for practice or for real but either way it was interesting watching as we poked along. After the bridge we passed a nice looking motel, restaurant, beach, dockage, with lots of boats anchored as well, which we marked as a place to consider on another trip down. We were amazed at the turquoise colour of the water and all the mangrove islands.
We stopped for the night at Mangrove Marina which we found to be a very friendly marina although with the tides the side docks were very narrow for the dogs. We are glad that we have a dog ramp with us as there are times we put the dog ramp on the back bench, Frank stays in the boat and encourages, shoves and prods while I am on the dock pulling and trying to steady them when they climb to the dock. We were able to walk to a restaurant, Copper Kettle where Frank had a great Spagetti Marinara and we also walked to the Bird Sanctuary which was another very enjoyable day.
We stopped at Lignunvite State Park and had a private tour with Bob, a state guide. Lignunvite is a native tree which grows in abundane on the island. The island was uninhabited except for the rangers.
Train to Pidgeon Key, above, and Seven Mile Bridge, below, in Marathon.
Poker Run stopped at Burdine’s for lunch, noisy boats with amazing paint jobs.
Deb and Dave came for a visit, it is always great to see friends.
Spent a couple of weeks in Marathon, a great spot to stop for boaters. Enjoyed a number of great restaurants including Frank’s favourite, Porky’s, and Burdine’s, a restaurant hung over the water where we were docked, beautiful sunsets. Went snorkelling at Sombrero Key Light with Deb and Dave, a little rough and both girls got a little green but great snorkelling.
We anchored for a night at Jew Fish Basin and then had lunch at No Name Pub, great grouper sandwiches, a place you will return to time and again.
Next stop was Key West, we stayed at Garrison Bight Marina which was an easy walk to town, the beaches, and Duval Square, there is just so much to do in Key West.
We crossed to Flamingo, in the everglades, and the following night anchored in Snake River which was a real experience for us, lots of other boats but no spot for the dogs to relieve themselves.
We stopped at Everglalde City which seemed like a step back in time, Rod and Gun Club a frame, two storey building with animals and fish mounted on the wall. This at one time was a club for the rich and famous in the Everglades. Where we docked had a strong current, poor docks, and noisy due to the air boat traffic. This snake was killed on the highway and hung on the wall of the store at the marina. Hard to believe the snakes are this long in the area. When we next returned to Everglade City, by car, the marina had been bought out by a developer and was headed towards a high end trailer park.
From Everglade City we headed north to Naples and the Treasure Coast. We met friends from home and had a wonderful dinner at the marina. It was amazing the number of dolphins we saw that day, playing in our wake, it was a real highlight for us. When you are behind the barrier islands the cruising is so easy and pleasant, no stress and lots of smiles. The next day we headed to Fort Myers where our circle would be complete. There was an incredible amount of boat traffic in the Caloosahatchee River which made things more challenging. Two months on the boat and we met our most discourteous boat driver in a cigarette boat, it felt like we were going to be swamped, if only we were fast enough on the VHF radio to let him know how he effected us, or did he care? All in all any amazing winter, so much we saw and so much we would still like to see, we will be back!